Chicken Biryani Recipe (Authentic Pakistani Karachi-Style Biryani)
Chicken biryani recipe the Pakistani way: spiced yogurt chicken masala layered with long-grain basmati, fried onions, mint and saffron, then steamed on dum.
This chicken biryani recipe is the layered, aromatic rice dish that fills Pakistani homes on Sundays, at weddings and at every Eid table. Spiced chicken cooked in yogurt and tomatoes is layered with long, separate grains of basmati rice, fried onions, fresh mint and saffron milk, then sealed and steamed so the flavours meet in the pot.
The word biryani is usually traced to the Persian "birian" or "birinj", words linked to frying and to rice. The dish grew up in the royal kitchens of the Mughal era, and every region of South Asia went on to build its own version. Karachi-style biryani, the one most Pakistanis picture, is known for a bolder masala with tomatoes, green chillies, plums or potatoes, and a generous hand with whole spices.
The flavour comes from three parts working together. The masala is cooked down until the oil separates, which means the onions, tomatoes and yogurt have lost their raw edge. The rice is boiled in heavily salted, spiced water until it is about three quarters done, so it finishes cooking in the steam without turning mushy. Finally the pot is closed and left on very low heat, a step called dum, so the rice drinks in the chicken juices from below and the saffron and kewra from above.
Bone-in thighs and drumsticks stay juicier than breast, but boneless breast works if you shorten the simmer. Shop-bought biryani masala works if you prefer, but use less red chilli because those mixes are often hot. Dried plums (aloo bukhara) add the sweet-sour note many Karachi families love, and halved potatoes can go in with the chicken to make the pot go further. If you have no kewra water, a few drops of rose water or simply more mint will do.
Serve chicken biryani with cool raita made from yogurt, cucumber and a pinch of roasted cumin, plus a simple kachumber salad of onion, tomato and cucumber with lemon. A wedge of lemon and a few sliced green chillies on the side are classic.
Watch how it is made on our YouTube channel: https://youtube.com/shorts/MDA16GgSTMc
Watch how it is made
Ingredients
- 1000 g bone-in chicken pieces (thighs and drumsticks)
- 500 g long-grain basmati riceSubstitute: sella basmati works well too
- 250 g plain yogurt
- 3 medium onions, thinly sliced
- 3 medium tomatoes, chopped
- 2 tbsp ginger-garlic paste
- 4 green chillies, slit
- 120 ml neutral oil or ghee
- 2 tsp red chilli powder
- 1 tsp ground coriander
- 0.5 tsp ground turmeric
- 1 tsp garam masala
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 tsp cumin seeds
- 6 green cardamom pods
- 6 cloves
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 8 dried plums (aloo bukhara)Substitute: optional
- 1 small bunch fresh mint, leaves picked
- 1 small bunch fresh coriander, chopped
- 0.25 tsp saffron threads soaked in 60 ml warm milkSubstitute: or a pinch of yellow food colour
- 1 tsp kewra waterSubstitute: or rose water, optional
- 1 lemon
- 3 tsp salt, plus 2 tbsp for the rice water
Method
- Soak the rice. Rinse the basmati until the water runs clear, then cover it with cold water and soak for 30 minutes.
- Fry the onions. Heat the oil in a heavy pot and fry the sliced onions over medium heat, stirring, until deep golden brown. Lift out a third of them to drain on paper for layering.
- Bloom the whole spices. Add the cumin seeds, bay leaves, cardamom, cloves and cinnamon to the remaining onions and stir for 30 seconds until fragrant, then add the ginger-garlic paste and cook for 1 minute.
- Brown the chicken. Add the chicken and 3 tsp salt and cook on high heat for 5 minutes until it loses its pink colour.
- Build the masala. Stir in the tomatoes, chilli powder, coriander and turmeric. Cook until the tomatoes break down, then add the yogurt, green chillies and plums. Cover and simmer until the chicken is tender and the oil rises to the top.
- Boil the rice. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil with 2 tbsp salt. Drain the rice, add it and boil for 5 to 6 minutes until about three quarters cooked: a grain should break with a small hard centre. Drain well.
- Layer the biryani. Stir garam masala into the chicken. Spread half the rice over the chicken, scatter half the mint, coriander and fried onions, then add the rest of the rice and the remaining herbs and onions. Drizzle over the saffron milk, kewra water and a squeeze of lemon.
- Steam on dum. Cover tightly with foil and a lid and cook on high heat for 2 minutes until you hear steam, then turn to the lowest heat for 15 minutes. A flat pan or tawa under the pot stops the bottom from burning.
- Rest and serve. Turn off the heat and leave the pot closed for 5 minutes. Gently mix from the sides so you get white, yellow and masala rice in every serving, and serve with raita and salad.
The two things that make or break biryani are the rice water and the timing. The boiling water should taste almost as salty as the sea, because the rice only absorbs salt at this stage. Pull the rice out while it still has a small bite, since it keeps cooking on dum. Keep the chicken masala slightly saucy before layering: if it is dry, the bottom layer will catch and the rice will not get that juicy, flavoured base. Biryani tastes even better the next day; reheat it covered with a splash of water.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between biryani and pulao?
In biryani the rice and the meat masala are cooked separately and then layered and steamed together. In pulao the rice is cooked in the meat stock in one pot, so it is milder and the grains are evenly coloured.
Which rice is best for chicken biryani?
Aged long-grain basmati is best because the grains stay separate and grow long when cooked. Sella (parboiled) basmati is a forgiving option for beginners because it is harder to overcook.
How do I stop my biryani rice from getting mushy?
Soak the rice for 30 minutes, boil it in plenty of salted water and drain it when it is about three quarters done. Then steam it on very low heat and do not stir it until it has rested.
Can I make chicken biryani without yogurt?
Yes. Use an extra tomato and a squeeze of lemon for tang, and add a little water while the chicken simmers. The masala will be less creamy but still very flavourful.
What is dum in biryani?
Dum means slow steaming in a sealed pot. The trapped steam finishes cooking the rice and lets it absorb the aroma of the chicken masala, saffron and herbs.
What do you serve with chicken biryani?
Pakistani families usually serve it with raita, a kachumber salad of onion, tomato and cucumber, lemon wedges and sometimes a cold drink or shami kebabs on the side.
